The essential dog accessories (and the ones you can skip)

Pet shop shelves overflow with objects, and it is easy to spend a lot on things a dog doesn’t need at all. Conversely, a few well-chosen accessories make a real difference to its comfort, its safety and your daily life. Here is the list of what is essential, what is useful and what you can do without, with the criteria for choosing well.

Collar or harness?

Both have their place.

The collar carries the ID tag and is enough for a dog that walks without pulling. Choose a flat one, wide enough not to cut into the neck, adjusted so that you can slide two fingers underneath. A puppy grows fast: check the fit every week.

The harness spreads the pull across the chest rather than the throat. It is better for puppies, small dogs with a fragile windpipe, short-nosed breeds, dogs that pull and those with neck problems. A Y-shaped model, which leaves the shoulders free, is the most comfortable. A harness with a front attachment, on the chest, helps with learning to walk on a lead.

To avoid: choke collars, spiked collars and electric collars. They work through pain, injure the windpipe and damage the relationship with the dog, without teaching it anything lasting.

The lead

For the town, a lead of one metre twenty to two metres, in nylon or leather, with a solid clip. An adjustable three-position lead is the most versatile.

For learning recall and country walks, a long line of five to ten metres gives freedom without risk.

The retractable lead looks practical, but it teaches the dog that pulling lengthens the lead, locks badly in an emergency and causes burns and falls. Keep it for wide open spaces, never in town.

Identification

A lost dog without identification has very little chance of finding its home again. At minimum, fix an engraved tag with your phone number to its collar. The microchip, fitted by a vet, is permanent and tamper-proof; it is also compulsory for travel abroad.

Bowls

Two bowls are enough, one for water and one for food.

• Stainless steel is the best choice: sturdy, easy to wash, it holds neither smells nor bacteria.
• Ceramic is stable and hygienic, but breakable.
• Plastic scratches, harbours bacteria and can cause chin irritation.

Choose a heavy model or one with a non-slip base. For dogs that gulp, a slow-feeder bowl, with ridges, slows the meal and limits regurgitation. Wash the bowls every day: in hot weather, standing water and leftovers ferment within hours.

The bed

A dog sleeps twelve to fourteen hours a day; its bed deserves some attention.

• Put it in a quiet spot, out of draughts, from which it can see the family.
• Choose a size that lets it stretch out fully.
• Prefer a removable, machine-washable cover.
• For an older or large dog, a memory-foam mattress eases the joints.
• In summer many dogs prefer the tiles or a cooling mat; in winter, insulate the bed from the floor.

For a destructive puppy, start with a simple blanket or a hard-wearing mat: a nice foam basket won’t last the week.

The travel crate

It is used in the car, at the vet, for journeys and, at home, as a refuge and an aid to house-training. The dog must be able to stand, turn round and lie down fully.

Rigid plastic models are safest in the car and are the only ones accepted on planes. Introduce the crate gradually, door open, with treats and a toy, never using it as a punishment. For journeys, read our advice on travelling with your dog.

Toys

Play isn’t a luxury: it is a need, which burns energy, occupies the dog during your absences and protects your furniture. Three types of toy are enough:

• a sturdy chew toy, in rubber, to calm and for the teeth;
• a toy to stuff with food, which keeps it busy a long time and makes it think;
• a toy to share: ball, rope, soft frisbee.

Match the size: a toy must be too big to swallow. Avoid tennis balls, abrasive for the teeth, toys that shred, sticks, which cause mouth injuries, and cooked bones. Check the toys’ condition regularly and throw away any that fall apart. Rotate toys rather than leaving everything out: novelty keeps interest.

Hygiene kit

• poop bags: picking up in town is a mark of respect and public health;
• a brush suited to its coat;
• a dog shampoo;
• a nail clipper;
• a tick hook;
• an enzymatic cleaner for accidents.

The detail of care is in our guide to grooming at home.

The first-aid kit

A few items are enough to handle minor incidents while waiting for the vet: sterile gauze, a cohesive bandage, saline solution, an alcohol-free antiseptic, tweezers, a tick hook, a thermometer, a soft muzzle and the numbers of your vet and an out-of-hours clinic. Put no human medicine in this kit.

For summer

A bottle with a built-in bowl, a folding bowl, a cooling mat and a basin: in our climate, these are almost essentials. See protecting your dog from the heat.

What you can do without

• clothes, except for very cold-prone, hairless or sick dogs, in cold, wet weather;
• shoes, except for an injury or unavoidably scorching ground;
• perfumes and deodorants: a clean, healthy dog doesn’t smell bad, and its sense of smell is delicate;
• raised bowls, unless prescribed by a vet;
• too many treats and food supplements without veterinary advice;
• connected gadgets, rarely useful day to day.

Buy sensibly

Favour sturdiness and ease of cleaning over looks. A good harness, a stainless-steel bowl or a travel crate last for years and are quite fine bought second-hand, as long as you wash and disinfect them before use. Check the stitching, buckles and clips: they are what give way.

Browse the supplies listings to find new or second-hand equipment near you.

Key takeaways

A well-fitted collar or harness, a solid lead, identification, two stainless-steel bowls, a washable bed, three toys and the basic hygiene kit: that is the essential. The rest is comfort. If you are expecting a puppy, our article bringing a puppy home will help you get everything ready before it arrives.